Joseph H. Fabish is an expert on Peruvian textile traditions, from pre-Incan to contemporary times. As he describes it in the article “The Royal Inca Weavers of Huamachuco,” Joseph Fabish’s interest in this tradition came about during a visit to Peru in 1977, at a time when highland Andes villages such as Mollepata, Tulpo, and Mollebamba could only be reached by horse or on foot.
As Joseph H. Fabish describes in his book, “Andamarcan Textiles: An Elite Inca Weaving Tradition from Peru Found on the Ancient Lands of the Haciendas Sinsicapa (San Ignacio) and Tulpo,” the Tulpo hacienda spans lands that traditionally served as soto reales, or royal pastures for domesticated alpacas and llamas. This lasted for several centuries, from the Inca Huayna Capac era to the late 16th century. During this time, the camelids’ fleece was used in weaving cumbi, a tapestry-like blanket favored by nobles in Inca and Huamachuco society. This cumbi weaving style was also incorporated in unique and colorful hand-woven belts. These traditions persisted, even as the native camelids of pre-Hispanic times gave way to herds of Merino sheep. Even in the late 20th century, pre-Hispanic callua back-strap looms were still in use in highland communities when crafting striped blankets. For checkerboard patterned blankets, treadle looms dating back to colonial times were used.
Joseph Fabish 